Well, at least that's how most folks around heah pronounce it!
Here's some pictures I just made. As early as Thursday I went around the entire yarden and put out Eliminator Fire Ant poison on the mounds, both big and small. Today these have popped up. I noticed in a previous post that GaKaren had been putting out poison for them. Obviously this Eliminator stuff ain't cutting it. Someone told me to try Splenda Artificial Sweetener....my goodness, that would be an expensive alternative, but if it worked, it might be worth it.
Over the years I've tried various home remedies, one being clorox. I was buying 5 and 6 gallons of clorox at a time...then you started getting funny looks because I think clorox was an ingredient in meth.....so I quit doing it. It didn't do any better than the Eliminator.
So what works for you? In fact, does anything actually work? Thanks The last of the Eliminator on this big pile
Two small ones near by just starting
look what's inside my catmint -just starting
and this just starting at the walkway
There are several more new hills starting up...this just gives you a general idea
ve
Oct 13, 2012, 12:48 PM
bana
sorry for your dilemma and since we don't have far aints out heah, i can't help you. and oops.. sorry.. guess the splenda idea was not a good one. guess you can't believe everything you google up.
i can't stop laughing tho.. picturing you in your meth lab. heheheh hohohoho hahahaha.
Oct 13, 2012, 12:49 PM
Barb in Mississippi
Don't waste your money on Splenda, I did and know that it doesn't work. The fire ant hills just got bigger.[I think they invited some friends] I use Ortho Fire Ant Killer. I doubt it kills them. the only thing that i know for sure to kill them is diesel fuel and I won't use that. pour that stuff on the ground and nothing will grow there for YEARS! I still have more fire ants than i want, but 1 would be too many!
Oct 13, 2012, 01:05 PM
bana
quote:
Originally posted by Barb in Mississippi: Don't waste your money on Splenda, I did and know that it doesn't work.
sorry, barb, for steering you wrong.
Oct 13, 2012, 01:18 PM
still tryin
Do you have red fire ants? This is what is recommended in California. I'll provide a link because the table won't display correctly on this website.
The red imported fire ant is a quarantined pest in California. If you suspect that the pest is on your property you can call a statewide toll free number that has been set up by the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) (1-888-4fireant or 1-888-434-7326) to help get the pest identified by someone in your area. There is also an informative Web site, http://www.cdfa.ca.gov/phpps/pdep/rifa/. If you are in an area where the fire ant has not been previously established, contact CDFA for help and do not attempt your own control program. In southern California’s Orange County and in the Coachella Valley, the Vector Control Districts have active fire ant eradication programs and will assist residents with treatment. In Los Angeles County, the county agricultural commissioner may provide treatment in some areas. In other areas and in Riverside County, residents may be responsible for their own treatment. Hiring a licensed pest control operator is strongly recommended because licensed professionals have access to the most effective management products and experience in controlling this pest.
For professionals and residents carrying out their own management programs, ant baits are recommended because they are inexpensive, highly effective, and safe for the environment. Table 1 shows many bait products labeled for use against fire ants in California. Table 1. Common bait insecticides for fire ant control available in California 2006. Active ingredient (a.i.) Product name Availability Speed of control hydramethylnon Amdro Homeowners moderate to slow Maxforce Fir Ant Killer Granular Bait Professional Use Only moderate to slow abamectin Ascend Professional Use Only moderate to slow Enforcer Homeowners moderate to slow fipronil Ceasefire Professional Use Only moderate to slow pyriproxyfen Distance Professional Use Only slow Spectracide Fire Ant Killer Homeowners slow spinosad Conserve Homeowners moderate to slow methoprene Extinguish Homeowners slow Extinguish Plus Homeowners slow fenoxycarb Award Fire Ant Bait Professional Use Only slow indoxacarb Advion Professional Use Only data unavailable Spectracide Fire Ant Killer Plus Preventer Bait Homeowners data unavailable
Using bait allows the foraging ants to carry the poison back to the nest and the rest of the colony. Most fire ant baits consist of a matrix of de-gelled corn grits that are coated with soybean oil containing the toxicant. Baits should be put out when ants are seen walking on the ground (temperatures from 70° to 90°F are best). In hotter weather, baits are best applied in the evening. They will then forage overnight on the bait. Baits lose their effectiveness quickly with extreme heat, water, and sunlight. Fresh bait from an unopened container works best; an opened package may remain fresh for only a couple of weeks. Furthermore, the ground should be dry to avoid further deterioration of the baits. On watered turf, in most cases a couple of hours without irrigation should be sufficient to allow the ants to take the baits to their nests Also, do not apply baits if rain is expected. Fire ant baits are broadcast at 1.5 lbs per acre and are unlikely to pose a threat to people or animals at these rates of applications. Labels should be carefully followed with regard to where and when these baits should be applied and special care taken to avoid applying on hard surfaces or washing baits into storm drains.
For long term control a bait containing an insect growth regulator (IGR), such as Distance, is recommended. However, IGRs are slow acting, requiring 4 to 6 weeks for maximum efficacy. If quicker results are desired, a corn-grit bait containing hydramethylnon, such as Amdro, can be used. It will give good results within one week or less. Table 1 lists common bait products available for controlling ants. Many of these are available only to licensed professionals.
Mound treatment and broadcast granules such as products containing cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, pyrethrin, acephate, d-limonene, permethrin, bifenthrin and lambda-cyhalothrin are not recommended. These products may give a quick reduction in visible ants, but they generally kill only foraging workers and do not give good long-term results in reducing the colony. One exception is a broadcast granular product containing fipronil. All of the mound treatment and broadcast granule products mentioned above have greater potential of running into groundwater than do the baits, and all the pyrethroid products have been found in urban creeks at levels toxic to aquatic wildlife. Fipronil also poses hazards to aquatic wildlife. If you hire a pest control operator, the merits of the different treatments with respect to efficacy and safety for the environment should be discussed before treatments are done. (See Pest Note: Hiring a Pest Control Company for information on hiring a professional.)
WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS
Oct 13, 2012, 03:14 PM
Florida Farm Girl
Bless your heart, Vera. Dealing with far ain'ts is a never ending battle in the south. And right after a heavy rain, they are redigging their tunnels and such. That's why you see them just pop up seemingly overnight.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Florida Farm Girl,
Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain.
Oct 13, 2012, 04:00 PM
16paws
Just another reason to live up north!
Oct 13, 2012, 05:31 PM
SSTR (Stop & Smell the Roses)
Don't rest too easy there 16paws - our armadillos are making their way up north, wouldn't be surprised the fire ants don't get inspired to do the same.
Oct 13, 2012, 06:20 PM
Wavy
quote:
Originally posted by vera ellen: Well, at least that's how most folks around heah pronounce it!
Over the years I've tried various home remedies, one being clorox. I was buying 5 and 6 gallons of clorox at a time...then you started getting funny looks because I think clorox was an ingredient in meth.....so I quit doing it. ve
Too Funny!!! F a r A i n t s Is this is how it is actually prounounced? That's kinda funny too, no offense of course! Are those the red ants I have often heard about. Are those the ones that bite? I have never seen such huge ant hills. You do have my sympathies and I am angry that the stuff you bought to ki11 them didn't work at all. I would return it to the company or manufacturer and demand a refund. I don't even like the lil black ants I have around HEAH....!
SPRING HAS F I N A L L Y SPRUNG!!!!!
Oct 13, 2012, 07:09 PM
ga.karen
I don't intend to demean anyone's post, however, I've done some research on fire ants. In the never ending battle, my first stop was our local county extension office...where I learned that an ant hill can be up to 20'...that's right 20 FEET deep! When we treat what we think is a hill, we are just treating one of many, many holes from the colony to the surface. Fire ants adapt to different chemicals. The one you have used for several years may no longer work & you need to change. They have also "learned" to have more than one queen per colony so that if we kill one they have others to lay eggs.
SOOOOOOOOOOOO, all we can do is keep trying. I've powdered & baited over 100 mounds in the last couple of weeks....some as small as a mug top and some larger than I can put my arms in a circle. We will kill a few and may cut down their numbers but if we don't treat/kill them on a regular basis they will just build up again.
And for all you northerners'...they are adapting to colder & colder weather & are moving north slowly.
VE, I have not found anything that will keep them killed or get rid of them entirely. Bayer FIRE ant killer (not reg. ant killer) worked for me for several years but I think mine have become immune to it so I switched but I don't remember which one I bought. They are both about $10 per container though. Some folks are having some luck with that stuff you put down over the entire yard/garden areas, but I think it killes beneficials too...I'd have to read the package since I've never used it. What some of the landscapers are using also kills everything...and I'm just not going to do that...I like my earthworms too well! Besides, I'm just not sure what that might do to someone who is exposed through bare feet or little children or pets...and that's not counting any runoff from it either...into our water supplies. I think I do enough harm as it is just treating mounds.
Enjoy your Far Aints! And yes, most folks around here say it like that too!
You could call your extension office & see if they recommend anything. There might be something that is working in your area right now.
For those of you who don't have them YET, pray that you don't get them! They are NOT nice!
"The soil is the source of life, creativity, culture and real independence." David Ben-Gurion
Oct 13, 2012, 07:49 PM
Barb in Mississippi
UNFORTUNATELY, you are right, Karen. All of it! The Ortho Fire Ant Killer, costs about $10 at Walmart. I know it only makes them move a few feet to another mound, but at least they aren't in my flower beds. I change up every year. Last year we used something called Spectricide. It wasn't great and the Ortho works better. I just hope I can find something that will work as well as Ortho, next year.
Oct 13, 2012, 08:00 PM
muddyshoes
What about HOT water?! This is an entertaining thread (at your expense!) Glad that is one problem I don't have for a change! LOL Gee maybe I should move my catmint away from the spot under my kitchen window!! Rooting for team Vera over there down south! HahaaThis message has been edited. Last edited by: muddyshoes,
"Those that throw mud, lose ground!" :>)
Oct 13, 2012, 08:01 PM
joyluck
Have any of you southerners tried diatomaceous earth? It's not a poison but works by abrading the waxy coating on the exoskeleton of any hard bodied insect which causes them to dehydrate and die. It's recommended to use it along with another method. I've used DE and a natural borax liquid which does reduce the number of ants here. Fire ants haven't reached this far north yet (might take awhile! LOL) but we have several other varieties. This year was a bad one for ants (or good for the ants) and I eliminated several nests near my house and garden. The rest can stay in the forest.
ETA Food grade DE recommended. I bought a huge bag as it's much cheaper that way - probably last me and my friends for decades!This message has been edited. Last edited by: joyluck,
Lucky
"I have always had an aversion to the concepts of in style and out of style." ~Rose Tarlow
Wow, Lucky, I've not heard of using DE before. We use the Bayer stuff but its an ongoing battle.
Ant bites are like any other insect bite. To some folks they are just a painful nuisance, but to others they are deadly afflictions. Either way, they are very painful. Feel like a bit of fire is touching you.
Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain.
Oct 13, 2012, 08:34 PM
mgt
Far Aints...what horrible creatures. Good luck with all your efforts to eliminate the buggers. 20' down? Wow. I hope they don't ever get this far North. I've had my share of regular, red ants & the big black ones & carpenter ants & that's bad enough. I think if it were me I'd try the DE. Good thing you stopped using the bleach...not so good for the soil.
~~~~~~~~~~~~ "I've decided to quit my job, drop out of society, and wear live animals as hats."
Oct 13, 2012, 10:23 PM
ga.karen
I tried DE about 10-15 yrs. ago...didn't work, they avoid it or cover it over with other dirt. It might work in areas other than down here, always worth a try! But it was super expensive back then too, more than I could afford on a regular basis.
"The soil is the source of life, creativity, culture and real independence." David Ben-Gurion
Oct 14, 2012, 07:10 AM
KimmSr
The best resource about fire ants and their control is from Texas A & M. Most every other web site about fire ants I have seen copies what they have researched. http://fireant.tamu.edu/
The sign of a good gardener is not a green thumb, it is brown knees.
Oct 14, 2012, 02:03 PM
still tryin
quote:
Originally posted by KimmSr: The best resource about fire ants and their control is from Texas A & M. Most every other web site about fire ants I have seen copies what they have researched. http://fireant.tamu.edu/
That is a good site. It tells you what time of year and the time of day to apply the baits. They also make it very clear that you can't eradicate the fire ants completely. There is a lot of other useful information too and I haven't even finished reading everything on the site.
Oct 14, 2012, 08:05 PM
vera ellen
Hi All - sorry I haven't been back to catch up on my post.....it's been a busy weekend with lots of company.
Thank all of you for the responses & for the various products you've used. I will change from my eliminator to another product to see if that helps a bit. However, overall, I kinda figured there was no sure fire way to get rid of them.
GaKaren, I did not know these mounds could burrow 20ft - good grief. Interesting response you had.
Wavy - yes, that is exactly how some folks pronounce it down heah, and then others like me do it on purpose for fun.
Still Trying - no these are not red ants - they are little black buggers and they sting and make whelps. If you step on a hill you are covered with them in an instant....they are fast little buggers too. Your information was interesting too.
Kimm - thank you - interesting read on the link you posted. I need to go back, click on all the links and thoroughly read.
For Paws and the others - SSTR & the other southerners were correct. We didn't have armadillos until a couple of years ago. Now you see more armor shells on the road than you do possums...so don't be too sure the far aints won't migrate north as well. They are indeed adaptable.
Thanks again everyone.
ve
Oct 14, 2012, 08:33 PM
ga.karen
VE, in my Master Gardener class they said to bait them first, wait 2 weeks & come back with a killer. I don't do that cause most of the time they are right where I need to work & I'm NOT standing anywhere near them! They are the reason I wear long pants, shoes & socks year round when working in the yard/garden!
Another little tidbit....if they attack in large enough numbers, like some of those huge hills you see in pastures, they can bring down a cow! When I lived in Fl. I knew a couple of folks who had to go to the hospital they had so many stings.
"The soil is the source of life, creativity, culture and real independence." David Ben-Gurion
Oct 14, 2012, 09:52 PM
zone9alady
Haven't seen too many red ant mounds this summer, they've been too busy circling my house nonstop.
Whether You Think You Can Or You Think You Can't..... You're Right - Henry Ford
Oct 15, 2012, 11:22 AM
zone9alady
I thought fire ants were red and big? You mean there are black far aints?
Potentially Misidentified Species: Florida is home to two different species of fire ant. In addition to the ubiquitous non-native red imported fire ant (Solenopsis invicta), Florida is also home to the less frequently encountered native tropical fire ant, S. geminata. Drees (1997) notes that S. geminata mounds can be distinguished by the presence of workers with disproportionately large square heads that are lacking in S. invicta worker ants.
A number of other fire ants of genus Solenopsis occur in the United States, including the black imported fire ant, Solenopsis richteri. Introduced to the U.S. in 1918, Solenopsis richteri co-occurs with S. invicta within a portion of its non-native distribution in the U.S. (e.g., Mississippi and western Georgia) and is capable of hybridizing with S. invicta (ARS 2003, Collins and Scheffrahn 2005).
There are more than 280 species of Solenopsis worldwide.
Oct 15, 2012, 01:44 PM
still tryin
This is a picture of the black imported fire ant Solenopsis richteri from the web site Antweb.org I hope I'm giving credit to actual photographer when I state that Barry Bolton took the picture. You are free to use their photos for educational purposes if you give credit to the photographer. There are more photos with different views on their website. -
GaKaren - I'm with you on the not waiting. However, since gardening season is basically over, I will bait first. Will check at the local co-op to see what they have available.
ve
Oct 15, 2012, 08:43 PM
ga.karen
If I'm going to use a kill powder, I use my foot to scrape off the top of the mound when the sun is high & the eggs are near the surface. That way I powder as many eggs as possible & they won't rescue those!
I think mine must be hybrids. Some are red or reddish and others are darker and they are all in the same mounds.
Muddy, you mentioned boiling water. It will kill the first inch or 2 but the water cools so fast when it hits the dirt that it doesn't do much good. And they will just make a new exit/entrance a few feet away. Constant drowning the hills with the "jet" setting on the hose nozzel will only make them move too.
zone9, I haven't used the product you posted but I did try garlic powder a couple of times...they just moved over a few feet.
"The soil is the source of life, creativity, culture and real independence." David Ben-Gurion
Oct 26, 2012, 11:40 PM
dmj24
wish I saw this last week. I was walking thru the grass..SHOES ON this particular day and whammo. as I sat down in the car I realized they were fire ants. I whipped off the shoes and banged them out. I still have about 20 bites on one foot and about 5 on the other foot.