I have been gardening for many years. But the last few years it seems like all my perennials are either not coming back or never bloom.
First how often do you thin out your Iris's? I had a rose bush that I never covered in the winter and it bloomed for 16 years and last year just up and died. All my rose bushes die. My columbine died, just about every perennial I planted died. I live in zone 4 and have only planted what would survive in that zone and i'm so frustrated that nothing is coming back the next year. I've lost alot of money in perennials.
What do you think I may be doing wrong?

Bumping for daricy!
I'd like to know the answer to her problem as well!!! Thanks!

Hi! I know your feeling. I hate to say it but the businesses that sell you the plants have a vested interest in them not surviving!
Here are some hints that will really work:
Improve the soil with chicken manure.
Roses ~ Plant them and fertilize with 1/2 cup Epsom Salts worked into the soil and water well around roots. Plant a penny and a nail that rusts in it's roots. Plant your bananna peels in their roots, too.
Use organic fish emulsion fertilizer. Maybe try growing your own plants from seed.
Garden Blessings! Jayna

Lack of or too much water. Huge changes in temperatures, especially in the winter time. Good compost should help with the fertilizing. I would rather use that than any other fertilizer.

Daricy - What's your soil like? If you're having alot of problems, I'd certainly have a soil test done... there could be something there that's not apparent to you.... Or your soil could need something added.

At the very least, you should be putting down a topdressing (about 2") of compost every fall after the plants have died back for the year.

Also be sure that the plants are getting the proper amount of sunlight and water...

As for your Iris, I divide mine about every 3 or 4 years. But you just need to look at them and see if they're over-crowded. And don't mulch or topdress Iris. If they're planted too deep, they won't bloom. The rhizome should almostsit on top of the ground.

If you plan to divide and transplant them, do it now. This is the perfect time of year. Cut them back to make them easier to handle and just go to town.... And mulch them well this fall after all the green has died back... But remove the mulch in early spring to avoid the rhizomes rotting. After the first winter after transplanting you don't mulch, only the first year.

As Iowa said you need to start by taking a good look at your soil. Contact your state universities USDA Cooperative Extension Service office abut having a good, reliable soil test done and dig in with these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
which can help guide in in determining what needs to be done to that soil.

Thanks for all the help. I had my soil tested and it came out good. I do have farm land and the soil is very rich and has alot of earthworms, good drainage. But I think i'm going do the mulch as that is one thing I have never done.

hey there daricy, you mention in your post that your soil is farm ground...is it possible that you're on the receiving end of pesticide drift(overspray) from any close ag ground?

don't think so. we have a sand praire across from our farm. land that has never been farmed.

hi, you might take into consideration of the heat we've had this year. in my area, lots of flowers that boasted "full sun" didn't seem to do to well in full sun. i think it was the heat more so than the full sun. my flowers have also struggled this year and some of my new perinnals only bloomed while they were in the pots i purchased them in and not after they were in the ground. i also mulched well and my soil is good. looking for new fresh blooms in the spring.

daricy - Good soil is important... I started with good Iowa soil, too... But you still need to add organic matter every year to maintain the soil health.

I have friends and family comment all the time about how my plants just seem to do so much better than thiers. They have the same basic soil that I have... but I add compost and shredded leaves each and every year. My soil is well ammended, so my plants are bigger, and healthier as a result.

Years ago there was a gasoline leak under ground at a neighborhood store & gas station. It killed plants for several blocks. I wonder if the soil will ever be the same.

This can happen with garden chemicals too.

If it were me, I'd have the soil checked. Something is wrong.

Please let us know when you find out.