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Maybe this one is up "Spary's" alley but anyone else knowledgeable have at it.

I have a recessed light in my bathroom which has decided not to work. I have elminated the bulb,switch and lead hot wire as being the problem. It is a thermal protected pot which accepts the R-20 bulb. Is the thermal coupler for the lack of another description) replaceable or will I have to replace the complete pot. It is an IH housing. Not really accessible from the attic. The house is 16 years old.

Thanks

This message has been edited. Last edited by: redoverfarm,

Red,
Are you getting power to the socket? Have you tested it with an VOM? You said it is IH housing, do you mean "IC" for insulation contact?

I'm not sure if the thermal coupler is replaceable. Do you know if this can is a new work or old work can? An old work can can be removed from below without making a bigger hole in the ceiling. A new work can is installed before the sheet rock and is difficult to remove from below.

New work can: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDi...l=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Old work/remodeling can: http://www.lowes.com/pd_118504...n%2Blight&facetInfo=

Sparky I am not sure which it is. I also referred to a IH or insulated housing meaning that there was a air space between two pots. I think we are talking the same. I didn't have a meter at the house ( it's at the cabin) only a circuit tester. I will pick it up in the am and try that. I doubt that I get power there if the Thermal coupler(?) is bad as it is what kills the power between the switch and socket if over heating occurs. BTW this was not what occured. It just never came on when the switch was thrown.

Red,
Are you sure there is power coming from the switch? Could it be a bad switch? A simple no touch voltage tester would tell you if you're getting power at the socket.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDi...l=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

If the thermocoupler is bad you wouldn't get power at the socket.

Back to the cans, if they are old work, they are held in place by some clips that are visible from within the room. Loosen the clips and the fixture can be removed from below. Should it come to that.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Sparky,

I replaced the switch. Using a circuit tester I have power on the hot lead to the switch (bottom lug) and with the switch to off there is no power leaving the switch. In the on position there is power leaving the switch (top lug) to the light. It's unlikely that the bulb socket is bad but in the AM I will see if there is power to the socket.

Occasionally the little tab in the bottom of the socket gets mashed down an doesn't make contact with the bulb. Always check the simple stuff before going for the hard stuff.

Sparky I looked at the pot light and the switch again this morning. It self healed. No not really but I narrowed it down to one of two possibilities. The original electrician(s) must have accidently got into the light wire from the switch and had taped the nick. When I went to pull the wire out of the switch it came loose. I hate those push in terminals. So I reattached the wire (shorter than I like) to the new switch. Then inspected the bulb base contact which showed power thus eliminating the T-switch. I pryed it off the base a little more to make sure it made contact with the bulb. Inserted a new CFL flood and it was good to go. OK I may never know exactly which two faults were the culpert but both are fixed now (until the next time). BTW the big box stores have no seperate T-switches.

Thanks