Did you do the proper sanding and priming with Zinser or other oil primer?
I just painted my laminate in the kitchen. I scuffed the surface, then primed with Zinser BIN, then applied a few coats of latex paints, the applied an oil based poly. I'm on my 3rd coat of poly. I plan to put on 5 coats. BTW -It came out beautiful!
So in answer to your question, you can paint with latex if you prime properly and then apply a sealant.
Posts: 74 | Location: Atlanta, GA | Registered: Mar 06, 2008
Actually...the word "Enamel" is meaningless. Before good Latexes, most paints were Alkyd-based, meaning Oil-based resins. Somehow, the word "Enamel" started to refer to the hard-finish of many Oils.
Now, many Latexes are referred to as "Enamels" as well!
Sooooo....nowadays...ALL paints that form a hard coating are generically referred to as "Enamels". It's now basically a meaningless word!!!
If you used a good quality Latex (say with a Satin sheen) on a cleaned/primed wall, AND used 2 coats of the paint...you're golden! NO further action.
Good answers already posted as per the term "enamel" and the washability of latex paints with sheen (satin, eggshell or semi-gloss.
If you painted the vanity with a latex "flat" and you are wanting to "seal" the flat paint with a clear coat, I would use a water based clear coat such as Minwax's Polycrylic or something similar. The problem with varnishes or (oil) urethanes is that they will alter the color already used on the vanity because they are amber in color and will yellow over time.
The color I painted the vanity was a dark brown semi gloss latex. If I use the polycrylic will it protect the latex paint? Since latex tends to not be as hard as enamel(IMHO), my goal is to protect the dark brown finish from scratches. I'm assuming the polycrylic will not bother the color since it is dark???
I followed your link and read "All" the links and "how to". Thanks for all the information.
Sharon
This message has been edited. Last edited by: kansas77095,
I don't think the polycrylic will be much harder than the semi-gloss latex.
Generically speaking oil based enamels are harder than latex enamels. The newer generation "waterborne" enamels are close to oil enamels in hardness. The waterborne enamels are Sherwin Williams Pro Classic, Benjamin Moore waterborne Satin Impervo.
Having said that, all you need to do is to recoat with the same color in an oil based enamel.
Waterborne enamels have overtaken oils by far. And consider the cleanup. Try Graham's paint which is formulated with ceramic. Fantastic! If you're going to stick with the coating you have, I would agree with the waterborne clear coating. Pick your desired sheen and apply the number of coats you like. Again, no yellowing. -Dan
Posts: 601 | Location: Chicagoland, IL | Registered: Mar 16, 2006
Graham's is partnered with Muralo. Many Benjamin Moore stores also carry this brand. It is not latex. It is a waterborne acrylic with ceramic microspheres. Super durable.
Painted 70's "woodgrain" laminate coutertops in small bathroom off master BR and main bathroom. Also replaced nasty sinks/faucets at same time... chipped sinks, corroded faucets. NO budget for a real make-over. I super scrubbed surfaces, sanded to scuff surface, and rolled on a few coats of Kilz primer. I did a faux marble on them. Most of the paint I used was left-over semi-gloss latex WALL paint in an antique white. Used cheap-o, 4/$1 craft acrylics in browns and tans to smoosh the marble pattern and vein. Used a water-based NON-YELLOWING coating to seal. Since I had another sink to use, gave each room a nice long time to dry/cure.
Did this about 5 years ago and it has held up fine.
Posts: 3853 | Location: mount holly, NJ, USA | Registered: Sep 19, 2002