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  painting Laminate countertop
painting Laminate countertop Sign In/Join 
does anyone have experience with those kits to paint over a laminate countertop? A new countertop is not in the cards until a few years from now and I'd like to get away from the yellow-ish tan color that I have now. have seen mixed reviews of those rustoleum countertop painting kits, etc. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!
Posts: 19 | Registered: Aug 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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I have known people who successfully primed and painted their counters years ago, even prior to the specific counter refinish kits. They had good luck with the results and it lasted long enough for them to either continue to use it or replace it after a few years. Following directions on prep and surface coating and allowing enough curing time should give one decent results.

Any painted finish is just that. Laminate or Formica is really not meant to be abused by cutting/heat and abrasive cleaners and painting over it adds to that advice. No cutting on the surface and (paint surface) safe cleaners must be used. Your lifestyle and personal use habits may be a good indicator as to how well it holds up.

I think it can be a great/inexpensive alternative to either cover an unattractive, current counter or try out a color change prior to eventually replacing the existing counter. Either way, I personally would tend to consider it temporary as to be replaced in a few years? Great choices in laminate/formica now and just not that expensive.
Posts: 9678 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It's really not necessary to use a kit but it does depend on what is in it. I have very successfully used a faux painting technique on my boring bath vanity, which was almond laminate with a wood base. It does require attention, cleaning off the water everytime and resealing every year or so. I would not recommend it for a kitchen countertop unless you plan on replacing it within a few years and are meticulous about looking after it, sealing it and cleaning it. Food can never be placed on it, a hot pot put on it or anything like that. With proper sealing (3 or more coats of a clear acrylic sealer) water beads up and water stains disappear. I use a primer for laminates, Benjamin Moore. I use craft color for the base and several for the decorative painting. I invest in good brushes and it really helps producing the final product. I painted my entire vanity, wood and all in a beautiful copper base, adding wainscoting to the sides and dentil molding. Put on raised wood decorative flowers and wood knobs..all painted copper. After a stipple, marble technique with browns, golds and deep copper, I sealed it three times with a clear polyurethane.It's really stunning and requires little maintenance. I chose not to paint the kitchen counter but to use marble pieces (I bought 4 slabs that were sold to roll out dough) and I keep them on the counters to add color and hide any marks. Hope this helps!
Posts: 10 | Registered: Oct 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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I would disagree with only one minor point of lucy-jean's post.
Poly is a plastic coating, and doing a few clear coats would help protect both the paint and be a clear film one could put dry food on. (No cutting or chopping, would not place raw meats directly on the surface, but placing a sandwich or fruits/vegetables would not be a problem).
Posts: 9678 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the advice! The plus is that this counter area is basically just where we wash dishes, not where we prep food or put hot pots. We have an island that is used for that purpose. it's just this stretch of baby-poop colored counter that needs SOMETHING...

I am not set on using a kit. If I were to just buy primer, paint and poly for the top coats what types do you recommend?
Posts: 19 | Registered: Aug 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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Zinser 1 2 3 is a really good water base primer for nearly any surface. Make sure the surface is clean of any oils, rinsed and dry. Tape off any areas you do not want to get paint on, like a sink edge or some trim or backsplash edging.
Paint formulas are always changing and hopefully improving, so you may want to ask at a pro paint store like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore? A good quality acrylic enamel should work well. I would probably still think about a gloss or semi gloss polycrylic to top off the paint for clear coat protection?

I have seen people use universal tints to mix 2, 3 or 4 shades of one main color and sort of sponge on layers of a variety of values, allowing drying between. This can hide imperfections or seams in the counter and give it more of a "formica pattern" look instead of a flat, one color slab. Marbling is another technique that needs a bit more skill to achieve.
Posts: 9678 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Cathydawkins24
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the few things I've heard about painting laminate or formica is to make sure you clean the surface really well first, then use sand paper on it to smooth it out. After that, prime and use an oil based paint. Will be anxious to see how this changes the look of your room!
Posts: 7 | Location: Sacramento, CA | Registered: Dec 07, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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you don't need a kit.. I did my bathroom counter using a good primer that would adhere to laminate, the little bottles of acrylic paint for crafts and I think the last layer was a clear poly product.. many coats of it with a day or two between coats. I was so sick of the mauve counter that I figured it couldn't look worse and went at it. While my color choices were certainly bold and not everybodies choice I had fun with it and would consider doing my other bathroom counter (tho for that one in a slate or natural marble look). The bathroom that I did the counter in still needs the rest of it done but we were doing so many other projects around here it just got put off. I did get the new toilet and sink in there tho. That's what prompted the counter painting- I had the sink out and didn't want to do it twice. One of these days I'll get around to doing the walls in a tan/ bamboo print paper or paint it that look. I'd have to look up the process again.. I seem to recall letting it cure for a week before using it. It's been a year or two and has not shown any signs of wear.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: llazy1,

Posts: 662 | Registered: May 11, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Christmas Candy
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I painted a blue laminate countertop.
I used Rustoleum paint for countertops, but NOT the kit. It was very thick and the countertop had to be clean before it was painted.

I used a tan color.
Then I used small bottles of craft paint, and fauxed it using a feather, toothbrush, small brushes, whatever to give the effect I wanted.

Once I had the look I wanted, I used a product called Envirotex Lite. I bought it at Michaels (use a coupon, it's about $25 otherwise) It gives it a hard glossy finish.

I painted this in a rental unit I own and 3 years later, it still looks like new!! If you have ever been a landlord, that is saying something!!!

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Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

The Rustoleum is thick and you need a stiff brush to spread it.

I had to work the vertical surfaces a bit and keep wiping with my brush to keep the Envirotex from dripping. Once it dried it is very hard. You also may need to use a pin to pop air bubbles, so it requires some effort and time. Don't just walk away after you apply the Envirotex, you need to watch it and work it a while, but it was very worth it in my opinion.


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Posts: 1330 | Location: CO | Registered: Dec 15, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Several years ago (at least 10), needed to replace sad sinks/faucets in 2 bathrooms. Main bathroom counter about 6' long & bathroom off master BR only a small vanity sink... both with 70s "woodgrain" laminate. Decided to make sink replacement a DIY project after guys at home store assured me it WAS as easy as "this old house" type programs made it look. Extra easy since I was ditching sinks entirely... could do all the plumbing (short of water hook up) without getting UNDER counters.

Didn't use any SPECIAL paint. I roughed up surfaces with coarse sand paper and cleaned the H outta it before starting. I used Kilz as primer... cuz that's what I HAD!?! Since I didn't tackle both sinks at same time, wasn't without one, so took my TIME. Used CRAFT paint (like in those little squeeze bottles) to do a faux marble finish. Gave that a few days to just sit before putting SEVERAL layers of a NON-yellowing clear coat... with a day or 2 in between applications. They have held up GREAT... then again, nobody to slosh water all over them.

For me it was a case of necessity/invention... NO ** to replce countertops. No regrets at all.
Posts: 5661 | Location: mount holly, NJ, USA | Registered: Sep 19, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Noel Trent
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To paint the counterparts there is having many kits that is good for painting. You can give the new look to your counterpart with new paint kit. The process to paint the counterpart will take around 4 hours for painting and 15 hours for drying. The darker tile is good, you can go for gray scheme with blue undertones.
Posts: 19 | Location: USA, California, San Jose | Registered: Aug 26, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Sandy O !
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Here's how I did my kitchen counter top 6 months ago (and they still look great!) Wash well with TSP, rinse, let dry, scuff up with rough sandpaper, remove all dust with vacuum and a damp cloth. Roll on a coat of Rustoleum OIL base paint. Let dry over night. Sand lightly with 100 grit sponge, remove dust. Put different colors of cheap (think little $1 bottles)of acrylic paint in a paper plate, blot off some of the paint and lightly sponge on the counter top, repeat using other colors, until you get the look you want. (I suggest you make a sample board first.) Sand lightly and remove dust again. Now using a painters pad apply a coat of OIL based poly (I used Minwax gloss)let dry according to directions on can, reapply. (I used three coats, lightly sanding between.) Let the counter dry as long as you takes a while to fully cure. I tried water based poly but it skinned over too fast, oil base does have a slight yellow color. Every one that sees the counters thinks we got granite!!

Posts: 1291 | Location: wyandotte, mi. usa | Registered: Jul 23, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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