I want to replace my existing sink with a farmhouse/apron sink. I have found a lot of info on how to put into existing cabinets, but not using existing countertops. Here is a great link of someone who posted their project.
Some styles of the sink fit under the counter which would not work for me. There are some like the one from ikea that may work.
I would like to see if anyone has pictures or info of installing one using existing counters.
The few installations I have seen online were set into the counter top and must have been supported well from below, or hung from the wall. They are usually very deep and you will lose a significant part of the cabinet below. Plus you will probably not be able to use a disposal.
I think it is a very bad idea!
Additionally, those I have seen could not accept a standard kitchen faucet; you had to use wall mount faucets, which means going into the wall for the plumbing.
Maybe those I have seen were not the same as yours, but I think you will find this to be a major installation project.
I have seen modern apron sinks that were easier to install, but still a major project.
Added: Ok, I got the link to work and I see you are actually talking about a modern sink, but as you can see in the link, it is a major project. If it is no deeper than a typical sink, why bother?
Once you change the sink, you are stuck with it and a future buyer may not like it as well as you do. Remember that a woman buyer is many times most influenced by the kitchen sink.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bob Fleming,
The advantage of many farm-style sinks, is less of a forward lean as one works at the sink. It's easier on the back, but the difference is really small for most folks.
The front of that Ikea sink is so fat, that the advantage doesn't really exist; it's just an aesthetic thing.
I don't like the look of overmount farm-style sinks, myself. I guess if one can get additional bowl depth out of it, that's good. I agree with Bob, that the Ikea sink isn't deep enough.
You can certainly do this with existing countertops. The process is the same. You may find yourself using a reciprocating saw on the cabinet front, instead of the jigsaw, because with an existing top in place, you won't have room for the jigsaw foot. That's the only real difference I can think of.
Note the sink overlays the cabinet front anyway, so there's a margin of tolerance to work with.
Make sure you check level of the existing countertops across that sink base, before you start figuring your cabinet cuts. Laminate and solid surface can follow out of level cabinets, and you may find yourself having to shim one side or the other, to get accuracy.
Sometimes, you'll find the tops actually twisted across the sink base, and opposite - diagonal - corners can be high.
If the tops are consistently out of whack front to back, you may decide to live with that, but make sure the sides that support the sink agree - are level to each other, at parallel points across the opening. If needed, you should shim the existing countertops, so you don't end up with big ugly or uneven caulk beads at the sink sides. Ideally, the sink sits flat to the top, and the caulk bead is minimal and even. Check both before, and after, you cut the countertop section off the sink base, and be sure the cut sides are properly supported at the cabinet walls before you set the sink.
I have seen some installation online but still I can't figure out how they do it.
Hard to say from here without looking at it; maybe a photo would help.
My best guess would be that some wood bracing was added under the sides to support the sink. I doubt that a new sink would be a wall mount.
The overmount styles rest on the countertop, so the sides of the sink bear the weight. That's why the countertops need to be solidly installed as I described previously.
Undermount styles get wood blocking/framing to support the sink at the sides OR a platform to sit on. The platform can be as simple as a couple of 2 x 4's, but normally it's a stable wood frame with a 3/4" top plate, about the same front/back dimension as the sink, cut out for the drain attachments.
The disposals normally fit okay in the space under the farm sink. You can always change the cabinet bottom if need be, but I don't see that all that often.
More often, issues come up with the height of the waste where it comes out of the wall, in relation to the disposal outflow. If it's too high, the disposal won't be able to drain clear. That's when you have to change the pipe in the wall, find a shorter disposal unit, or lose the disposal altogether.
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