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Tiling a shower, do you use the green boards and the backer boards!!! |
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Question, my husband is re-doing our master bath over and wants to know when he puts the green board up in the shower part does he also use the backer boards?
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You are NOT supposed to use greenboard in damp areas unless you do a Kerdi Membrane method shower like these; http://picasaweb.google.com/tile4youinc
If you do a tradition shower you will use ONLY cement backer board and bond the tiles ONLY with thinset mortar. Use nothing that comes pre-mixed. The hardest part is the base, including both slopes and the membrane, aka the 'pan'. Do you know how that is done? Jaz I've NEVER made a mistake, I thought I did once...but, I was wrong! |
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Jaz -
Beautiful pics. Can you please further explain why you do not use green board? We are in the middle of a bath re-do at our cottage in mid-MI. We thought we were going use the plastic wall surround for the tub, but since changed our minds. We plan to tile, but now have the green board up and primed. Thanks. |
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Greenboard used to be the thing in showers but experience proved that it doesn't work reliably. Use only an approved backerboard behind tile in a shower. I prefer Hardibacker.
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Oh, I outline the process of making a shower in the tile topic on my website at www.bobf.info.
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Please explain what you mean by "reliable"? Thank you.
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I'm in the process of having my shower tiled right now. My guy is not using the greenboard either, just the hardibacker.
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Greenboard wqas decertified for use in wet areas like a tub/shower surround back in 2006 by the International Residential Code (Which replaced BOCA building codes).
Simply put, if it gets wet due to water penetration through a crack in the grout, over time it will turn into pancake batter. And in tile circles it is well known that pancake batter is not a stable or suitable surface on which to set tile. |
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Lorie,
How are you building your shower? Mainly, what are you doing with the shower floor? Will it be a tiled floor or do you have a fiberglass pan? Jaz I've NEVER made a mistake, I thought I did once...but, I was wrong! |
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Jaz -
Our shower floor is actually the bath tub. It's a small, 1 bath cottage, with a tub/shower combo. We had to rip out the bathroom upon purchase. We re-drywalled the bath with green board, including the bath walls. We had a brand new steel/porcelan tub installed. We planned to put up fiberglass walls, but the unit we purchased did not fit right. So, we have now decided to tile it. We'll probably go ahead with the plan - as this is only a cottage, not a full-time residence. Bob - Thank you for your insight to the green board. I guess if we ever have to re-do the bath again, we'll research backers a little more. Lorie |
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Lorie, the thing that Bob didn't expressly point out is that it takes a while for this pancake batter thing to show externally. Meanwhile, structural damage is happening to your wall studs and possibly even floor/subfloor.
It can be an expensive proposition to repair. Ask my checkbook. eta: I'm NOT a tile person so I don't know all the in's and out's. From what I understand, greenboard isn't a guarantee that this will happen but the issue remains that it CAN happen. This message has been edited. Last edited by: Too Much Stuph, ************************** Begin as you mean to go on... |
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You are absolutely right about hidden damage. That's what happened to my previous shower walls and ceiling. All of the studs in the shower enclosure had to be replaced with new ones.
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Thanks everyone. This was a big help. I printed off the directions hahahah. So I assume all he is to use is the hardibackers and just tile and you would
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And may I throw in a question, too? The same tile setter who told me that my 4 x 4s are too irregular told me that he hates Hardibacker and sets countertop tile directly over plywood rather than use the Hardibacker. He says it will crumble. Says he uses the other stuff how many brands ARE there?). He really gave me pause when he said he'd lay the counter tile directly on plywood. Yikes! Won't the plywood suck up the thinset? I've talked with 4 tile setters so far, and each one has a different opinion. I'm getting soooo confused!
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A countertop is subjected to moisture from above, like around the sink hole and below, from wet heat out of the dishdryer. Hardibacker wont crumble from moisture. If the guy believes that he should get educated or get into a new trade. It would crumble along the edges if not nailed correctly ie. too close to the edge, but other than that, no way. I would embed the cement board in thinset and anchor with galvanized roofing nails or backerboard screws. I wouls apply a paint on waterproofing to the plywood around the sinkhole, surface and edges, and to the underside in the dishwasher cavity. If cement board is applied to the facing of the countertop, I would predrill and screw it in place.
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