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Picture of Hammerhugger
posted
My husband and I tried to reapply stain to our patio and we are having problems. We bought the solid stain from Lowes (Valspar) and when we put the first coat on, it dried very uneven, shiny in some spots, not others. We called Lowes and they sent the Valspar rep out and he did not know what was causing it. He was willing to give us more stain and thought possibly a second coat would make it go on more evenly. We put on the second coat and it still looks the same plus this time it bubbled in spots. We put it on with a 3/8 inch roller nap that Lowes recommended. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? It was stained when we bought it but needed redoing.


My mind is a garden. My thoughts are the seeds. My harvest will be either flower or weeds.
--Mel Weldon
 
Posts: 5564 | Location: Arizona, in the valley | Registered: Sep 18, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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The solid concrete stain that I am familiar with, required the concrete to be initially acid etched to accept the original stain. (we also used a gasoline power washer to both clean and rinse the surface). Sometimes a clear coat sealant is applied over the top of the stain when dry. If the original stain failed or needed to be refreshed, this sealant would cause the new coat/application of stain to not stick to any areas where it remained. This is why we opted not to do a clear coat on outdoor concrete. (much easier to touch up any worn areas)

You might try cleaning it really well with a power washer? This should remove any bubbled or failed areas too.
 
Posts: 9638 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Hammerhugger
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Conrad, it is not that it is not sticking (there was no bubbling with the first pass of stain). It just goes on so unevenly with the roller. In some places it looks shiny, especially where it is overlapped. They recommended a 3/8 inch nap roller. Here is a pic.....hard to see because of the sun shining on it but trust me, it looks terrible.


My mind is a garden. My thoughts are the seeds. My harvest will be either flower or weeds.
--Mel Weldon


 
Posts: 5564 | Location: Arizona, in the valley | Registered: Sep 18, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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Yes, I think I can sort of see what you mean, by the variation. Especially over by the pot?
I know that Sherwin Williams sells the concrete stain as well as clear top coats. That may be a solution for you...a clear top coat, as at least the sheen would be the same, and you currently have a clean surface to apply it.
 
Posts: 9638 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Hammerhugger
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Wow, Conrad, never thought of a clear coat. I wonder if that might have been the problem to begin with. The surface we are covering seems to be slicker than the stain we put on. I will run that by the Valspar guy and see what he thinks. I don't think he knew the answer though but maybe you solved it for him. They should hire you! lol......I will let you know what we decide to do.


My mind is a garden. My thoughts are the seeds. My harvest will be either flower or weeds.
--Mel Weldon
 
Posts: 5564 | Location: Arizona, in the valley | Registered: Sep 18, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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Hope it helps?
If this concrete patio is at all slick when wet, SW also sells a product called Shark Grip.
This is a clear, microfine, smooth grit that is inexpensive, mixes really easily and uniformly into paints, stains and clear coats. Gives just the right amount of grab to keep a surface from being too slick when applied as part of the finish coat.
 
Posts: 9638 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Hammerhugger
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No, it never has been slick. We had a painter here today and he said he thought a clear coat would work too! I started on the second coat of stain/sealer and it looked bad so quit right in the middle of the patio. He said maybe we should finish out the other 1/2 and then he could apply a sealer coat. What do you think would be a good way to apply the sealer? I remember when I had hardwood floors done in another house, the guy used one of those velvet type pads (like a paint pad) only it was wide. Don't know where I could get one of those. We are thinking maybe we should let a professional do it. He said we probably should have done a square at a time and not gone over any place we missed. He thinks the heat might have something to do with it. We put both coats on with the sun shining on it on at least part of the patio. Hard not to have the sun on it when you live in AZ!


My mind is a garden. My thoughts are the seeds. My harvest will be either flower or weeds.
--Mel Weldon
 
Posts: 5564 | Location: Arizona, in the valley | Registered: Sep 18, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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Usually products will mention right on the can directions what they recommend for application, and what temperature. I have always purchased from Sherwin Williams, and they have been very helpful with these questions and recommendations. The product website usually also has an 800 number to ask experts too.

If you have a hot, sunny area, (and drying too fast might be a problem) I would consider application in the late afternoon, so that the product cure would occur during the evening and overnight, when temps are more stable?
 
Posts: 9638 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Hammerhugger
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Yes, wish we would have gone to SW to begin with but I can hardly go in there now and ask what we would do with a Valspar product!!

The painter was supposed to show up today but has not so far. I hope he can get it straightened out. Thanks for your input, Conrad.


My mind is a garden. My thoughts are the seeds. My harvest will be either flower or weeds.
--Mel Weldon
 
Posts: 5564 | Location: Arizona, in the valley | Registered: Sep 18, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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Actually yes, you can go to SW and ask. If you bring a can, or label information from the web, from the Valspar product, I bet they will still be very helpful.
I have done similar things here, and there was no problem. They may not be able to guarantee 100 percent success, but at least they can offer their opinion on what might work at this point.
 
Posts: 9638 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Hammerhugger
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My DH did not want to go to Sherwin Williams......I think he is tired of the whole mess so we hired someone to come and put another coat of stain on and then he has the first coat of clear coat going on and it looks pretty good. We still have to have one more coat of clear coat and will be glad when it is done because we have not been able to use our patio since before Christmas......we want to enjoy the beautiful AZ weather we have been having lately.


My mind is a garden. My thoughts are the seeds. My harvest will be either flower or weeds.
--Mel Weldon
 
Posts: 5564 | Location: Arizona, in the valley | Registered: Sep 18, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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Oh good!
Glad you decided on a resolution that seems to work for you! Hope it all goes well and lasts a long time.
 
Posts: 9638 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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never used any heavy apron/vest stains on conc - only acid-stain,,, looks like incomplete surface prep @ the start,,, next time you use this product, prep w/tsp then acid-etch - tsp will clean the conc while the acid preps the proper 'tooth',,, heavy stains are just paint impo but all's well that ends well - good luck !


if you hear it from an apron/vest store guy, be VERY skeptical
 
Posts: 265 | Location: atlanta | Registered: Jul 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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