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I recently purchased a dining room table and chairs at a thrift store (table, three leaves, six side & two arm chairs). My intention was to stain the table darker and paint the chairs white as they have a lot of detail & I'm not that good at stripping complex things. But after doing a little research into the set I've discovered that it is a 1950's Drexel Profile dining set. Now I'm not sure if I should mess with the finish or not--maybe just clean it up real good and re-cover the chairs. I have a strong appreciation for this kind of thing, but I'm not crazy about the finish. It would cost way too much money to have it refinished. Any opinions? http://www.metroretrofurniture...rexel8444Danish.html | |||
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Yes, I'd go ahead and do it. It will give you a new look on an old theme. | ||||
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I probably wouldn't paint it, but that's just me. | ||||
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I'd save up to have it refinished, but if that is not an option right now, just remember, the paint can be removed and the table refinished in the future. | ||||
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A beautiful dining room set! I would not paint it, but that is me. I would save and have it professionally done. If not, I would consult with a furniture specialist. Can I ask what you paid for the set? | ||||
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With tax I paid $325. I was very surprised at some of the prices that I saw of stores selling this set. I keep hoping that the hutch will turn up at the same thrift store! I'm leaning toward just cleaning it really well & doing the seats to see what I think. I might have someone take a look at it because some of the joints on the chairs need a little "tweaking". | ||||
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I got a Teak set with Danish manufacturing. Mine was a bit moldy by the time I got to it. Was given to my DH and he stored it in a garage until we could move to Virginia. But I washed it all down with Murphy's oil soap, took two washings. Then I bought Danish oil in a Cherry color, my set was red toned already. I applied two coats of this oil waiting for it to be fully absorbed, wiped it all down before applying second coat. Then wiped it all clean, and that was IT. It stayed this nice for years. This picture was taken in 2002 the first day we moved into our house. The furniture got passed on to a dear friend just got married and starting out. If you oil the furniture (if it shows a bit ashy type dryness) every few years, it will stay nice, water used to bead up on the surface. For those familiar with my Va house, this is before all the molding, hardwood flooring, built ins and columns! I had the chairs professionally refinished with two shades of microfiber for $40 per chair included fabric.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mary Ruth, Mary Ruth ![]() *****We don't see things as they are, we see things as WE are! ***** (Anaias Nin)***** http://pinterest.com/mary_ruth/ | ||||
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That is one gorgeous Danish modern dining set. I think you'll be much happier with it, if the teak is cleaned up and/or restored to its former glory. In the meantime, have fun recovering the seats. ETA - This might help: http://www.ehow.com/how_656472...anish-furniture.htmlThis message has been edited. Last edited by: aychihuahua, | ||||
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This would be my advice. Aychihuahua, the teak set is Mary Ruth's not SmMarge. Her chairs are ornate. | ||||
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The set is Walnut & pecan wood and is on the light side, but not golden or red at all. Some of the old photos I've seen the wood seems to be darker, but from what I can tell from Drexel there was once one finish offered. I have seen Danish oil at a local antique mall so I'll start there after I clean it! Definitely thinking I won't paint it! Thanks for the information on cleaning it. | ||||
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Look at your HD or Lowe's and check out the furniture oil section, and there are different stains in them that would coordinate with your type of wood. This covers over any ashy areas. Walnut can look 'gray' when it dries out, oil brings back its richness and depth of grain. If you use oil only and or tung oil type of finish it will need to be reapplied over time. After the furniture has all the oil absorbed and dried, you can top coat that wood to make it more water impervious (for eating use). Use placemats for place settings. You will have not only a well made dining set, but the experience of living with beautiful rich wood in your home. A google search refinishing walnut: http://answers.yahoo.com/quest...0061218164928AA5f2MK Even if you do not do this work yourself, read as much information as you can so that when your refinisher tells you what he will do, you will know he knows what he is working with. To really bring out the grain of the walnut, the first sealing coat should be glossy, this magnifies and intensifies the grain, then lightly sand and use the finish you want such as satin finish. That bottom glossy finish won't refract the light as much and so you will have less haze on top of the wood. Good luck! Mary Ruth ![]() *****We don't see things as they are, we see things as WE are! ***** (Anaias Nin)***** http://pinterest.com/mary_ruth/ | ||||
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by lady of shallot: [QUOTE] Aychihuahua, the teak set is Mary Ruth's not SmMarge. Her chairs are ornate. QUOTE] So, sue me. ((eye roll))This message has been edited. Last edited by: aychihuahua, | ||||
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Glad you are not painting your lovely set. Smart. | ||||
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Watco is the manufacturer of classic "Danish Oil" finishes. I'm a firm believer in painting what you want to paint, as long as the item in question is going to be enhanced or updated. This kind of classic Mid Century design really wouldn't look good painted, so hopefully you'll be happy with your finishing project. If you want to go full tilt, the chairs would look really great upholstered in a strong colored boucle. Best of luck. | ||||
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I'm thinking something purple-ly!! | ||||
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I would paint it.I am not a big fan of brown wood. | ||||
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Purple would be awesome! Duralee makes a microfiber twill in purple that's pratically indestructable. It is Pattern # 31801-217. It's called Richmond Twill Suede color eggplant. The price is around $30. per yard and it's worth every penny. Best of luck. | ||||
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Back at ya' kid! Seriously I was just trying to be helpful. Did not mean to offend you Ay! G od, sometimes I think belonging to this forum is an exercise in masochism!This message has been edited. Last edited by: lady of shallot, | ||||
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No offense taken, Em.This message has been edited. Last edited by: aychihuahua, | ||||
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hi mary ruth, _______________ But I washed it all down with Murphy's oil soap, took two washings. Then I bought Danish oil in a Cherry color, my set was red toned already. I applied two coats of this oil waiting for it to be fully absorbed, wiped it all down before applying second coat. Then wiped it all clean, and that was IT. ___________________________ question about Danish oil. did you actually strip your set before you applied the danish oil?? the lady at the woodworks place said that if I just clean it and apply the oil without stripping it first it will just sit on top of the furniture and get goopy. i think i'm reading too much! | ||||
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YOU HAVE A GREAT DINING SET. Drexel made quality furniture. I had two Derxel living room chairs for 47 years. My DD now has them in her bedroom. They have wood arms & a fine canning back. I would not paint it. I have re-finished many pieces of furniture. There was a time when I varnished the piece after sand/stain/etc. Then watched a man on PBS refinish. I use 4-0000 steel wool & "Boiled Linseed oil" to clean up a piece of furniture. There may be newer paste out there now to use with the steel wool. (a man gave me a small can of a paste to use with the steel wool, but not know brand. Onece you are finished cleaning the piece, be sure to get all the oil off. I let the furniture dry for 2-3 days then I start with the liquid floor wax. I wait 12 hours for next liquid wax. I usually put on 3-coats. I wait 2-days then I put on a coat of TURTLE CAR PASTE WAX. Wait 4-5 hrs. then polish with a soft cloth. I have finished 2-armoires & 2 end-tables this way. Will post photo of the armoire that is in din/rm | |||
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