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  Painting Kitchen Cabinets....what about the hinges? Redo? or Replace?
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Painting Kitchen Cabinets....what about the hinges? Redo? or Replace? Sign In/Join 
Picture of GreenAlice
posted
Ok so am planning to slowly over time repaint my kitchen cupboards from oak to creamy white paint. The current hinges are the ones that show entirely outside...I considered replacing with the brushed nickel ones to match kitchen when cupboards rehung. Then GF mentioned I should just put the hidden ones on....I thought no too much work...but that being said, what have YOU done...is it entirely more work, wouldn't I have to fill those darn holes to replace anyhow so they have something to cling to?

If you have been successful doing such pleas explain your thoughts and finished satisfaction...do those little external holes show even though filled and sanded?

THANKS!!! Big Grin


"Nature does not hurry yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tau
"There is more to life than increasing it's speed." - Gandhi

<>< Hebrews 13:2
 
Posts: 7305 | Registered: Feb 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of annielinz
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I painted my old cabinets without much thought, just jumped right in, so here's a few things I wish I had known:

From experience....if you are removing your doors to paint, number them, so they go back in the right spot.

I replaced my hinges with as close to the same size as what was on before to line up the holes, still some were off, very frustrating. If your hinges are still in good working order, maybe consider spraying them.

I did have to fill a hole on one of the cabinets where the knob went and, I'm not a professional painter...it looked OK.

Be patient and take your time, I probably rushed to get it done. In the long run you will be happy you painted them.
 
Posts: 2804 | Location: Central California Coast | Registered: Mar 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of GreenAlice
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Thanks annie...they are rather ugly burnt bronzey finish and well dated....considered spraying but then again, I know if and when it starts to chip I may regret not taking the time!!! I would like to have someone else take away my cupboard doors and paint them with a spray gun...they have those curvy beveled insets that will take a bit of sanding etc.


"Nature does not hurry yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tau
"There is more to life than increasing it's speed." - Gandhi

<>< Hebrews 13:2
 
Posts: 7305 | Registered: Feb 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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I did all of mine many years ago, and with some minor touch ups, they still look great. They were 1960 custom birch cabinets, which was too dark/dated and so I went with the cream color of a manilla folder.

Whenever I have taken on a big job, I reward myself with proper tools. Bought a 9 inch belt sander and small Makita finish sander which made it all go much faster. Worth every penny, both of them
If you remove all the hardware and want to change it, you can slightly overfill any holes with a good wood putty, let cure and sand smooth if you want. (I opted to keep the hardware, cleaned it and used Rustoleum spray primer and then spray paint in the same color as the manilla I chose). They had a stock color that was really close to a perfect match. Eventually I did replace all the knobs with new ones (found the right color), but the cup pull handles on the drawers are still painted the same and have held up well.

If you clean the surfaces well with TSP (cheap degreaser/cleaner), rinse and just sand easy surfaces lightly, you should be ok with those curvy insets. Get a good primer and it will stick to most any surface, once any greasy soil is cleaned off.

Oil base or alkyd paint is the best for cabinets, but I did not want the odor. So Sherwin Williams sold me their best industrial water base acrylic paint and I used Zinsser 1 2 3 for the wood primer. (Make sure you fill any seams, cracks and such prior to prime and paint, as it will give you the best and smoothest look)

Top quality paint is good at self leveling and hiding brush or roller marks too. (I did use a 6 inch hot dog type of foam roller on the large flat areas, but there is always areas where a top quality brush is needed too)

I took over the entire 2 1/2 stall garage with saw horses, chairs with boards across...anything to lay the door/drawer parts out flat to paint. And lots of clean cardboard boxes to set things on to dry.

It was really worth the effort, whenever I have seen pictures of the old light absorbing birch look, so keep that in mind as the task seems to take a while.Smile
 
Posts: 9429 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of out on a limb
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I used the hinges that were there because it saved me money and it went w/ the knobs that I replaced. Glad that i did because I had a few hinges that i couldn't get off. I just painted around them carefully. The rest I did take off and wash up.

I did take my time and put the doors back where they came off of.

When i painted, i used a degreaser to clean the cabinets - took some sandpaper and sanded w/ my hand - didn't spend a lot of time, just enough to scratch things up.

Primed w/ Zinnser 1-2-3 on both sides. Painted w/ 2 coats of semi-gloss Lowes Signature paint. The new acrylic paints are just as good as oil-based (which I really don't think you can get anymore Confused) I used a brush instead of a roller, but I can get a good finish w/ a brush.

I use the semi-gloss because it is a harder finish than satin and i can wash it. I painted my vanity in my bathroom - and it's held up well w/ the humidity.

I have been in my house 10 yrs & have painted the bathroom vanity twice. The 2nd time was a couple years ago when I painted the walls in the bathroom.

Good luck!!


~~~becca~~~~


 
Posts: 5536 | Location: dayton ohio | Registered: Jul 11, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of GreenAlice
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Thank you so much for all the advice...it gives me courage!

Out on a limb....they stopped doing oil based paints in part because they are not too good eco wise but mostly because the solvents to clean up the brushes was verrrrrrrrrrry TOXIC and entering waterways. That's what a paint dude told me a few years ago anyhow.

I was wondering if some of those foam paint brushes would be good for intial priming and painting of the recessed areas....

I have across the way from kitchen where I have my eating table another range of matching cupboards with glass fronts and mirrored backs on uppers and thin counter and cupboards on bottom to rather look like a large hutch. I think it would be savvy to begin by doing that one piece and get my practice in!!! Want to add those wood furniture feet and a new top valance to make it more furniture like....

My inspiration kitchen is Linda Woodrums 2004 DH kitchen...have the faucet, the paint colors, plan to do the same counter but have not figured out my floor yet....that is my biggest obstacle because currently I have about 23 yr old field tile ugly and cracking and I know it's lot's o'labor to take out!!! Eek Was told it was more to take OUT than put a new one IN!! Big Grin

This message has been edited. Last edited by: GreenAlice,


"Nature does not hurry yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tau
"There is more to life than increasing it's speed." - Gandhi

<>< Hebrews 13:2


 
Posts: 7305 | Registered: Feb 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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IF you replace the hinges, I would do the invisible ones.

I have painted cabinets in my kitchen. The hinges were painted before I bought the house and of course the paint has peeled. I have not replaced them because it is expensive and the cabinets are not high quality. However to replace them in such a large kitchen would cost a king's ransome. Your cabinets are probably newer and in good shape so most likely worth the investment.

LOVE your inspiration picture!!!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Love, Lu,
 
Posts: 1126 | Registered: Jan 20, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of GreenAlice
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Well I figure since I aim to spend money to do either might as well consider the whole overall look. Mine are not high quality...but they are oak on exteriors anyhow. I have one gf who did not like the beveled look and reversed her doors to have a more shaker look like above...THAT was a bunch of work! But she reused so kudos to her. I can't afford to rip out cabinets so going for a major update without a total investment in the cupboards.

Today someone mentioned that they painted and then was disgusted that the woodgrain showed through....that will be a whole 'nother thread I fear....Big Grin.

Glad you like my inspiration Lu....I think I found the feet just like that online the other day and that's one step closer!!! Cool


"Nature does not hurry yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tau
"There is more to life than increasing it's speed." - Gandhi

<>< Hebrews 13:2
 
Posts: 7305 | Registered: Feb 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of GreenAlice
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And you see my inspiration has partially exposed hinges but maybe thats a must if your doors are so flush?


"Nature does not hurry yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tau
"There is more to life than increasing it's speed." - Gandhi

<>< Hebrews 13:2
 
Posts: 7305 | Registered: Feb 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My cabinets were painted before I bought this house. The grain does show thru. Used to bother me but no longer.

One woman from the Cincinnati area who no longer posts here described the procedure she used so that the grain wouldn't show thru but it was very tedious and time consuming. I didn't think it would be worth the expense to have someone do it to my cabinets the next time they are painted.
 
Posts: 1126 | Registered: Jan 20, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of CaraRose
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We used the same hinges and spray painted them.

Good luck.
 
Posts: 525 | Registered: Jul 09, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of GreenAlice
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Lu I am thinking that another coating of paint will only help to dimish the grain? Will have to research that but thinking the overall lightening of the color tone will more than compensate for that in my mind's eye....tradeoff for not ripping out and investing way too much in this house!!! Big Grin I just will keep telling self it's eco friendly to reuse period. Probably depends too on the downlighting....Wink


"Nature does not hurry yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tau
"There is more to life than increasing it's speed." - Gandhi

<>< Hebrews 13:2
 
Posts: 7305 | Registered: Feb 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of GreenAlice
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Meant to say HI to Conrad....long time no talk...you always have such the painting tips thanks for the great information, and I agree do not skimp on tools to simplify ANY task...Smile


"Nature does not hurry yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tau
"There is more to life than increasing it's speed." - Gandhi

<>< Hebrews 13:2
 
Posts: 7305 | Registered: Feb 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of sjf
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have found the metal spray paints are the best and don't seem to chip...just remember to make sure the surface is clean...(tooth brush them) actually martha stewart dipped her brass to remove the clear sealant so they'd age and get a patina...
 
Posts: 8479 | Location: se mi | Registered: Sep 25, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of conrad
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Hi back at ya...Green Alice!
Just to add to sjf's advice, the metal primers are the BEST for any metal you plan to coat. (They are formulated for both clean metal and others for rust prohibiting). They stick really well to metals, and you can spray topcoat nearly immediately.
 
Posts: 9429 | Location: Plains & Mountains | Registered: Jun 08, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Annett
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I'd replace the current hinges with the concealed type so that, if you ever decide to change your pulls, you won't have to worry about matching metals.

Please show us some pics as the job progresses! Smile
 
Posts: 1430 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: Nov 28, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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