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  Dresser I want to transform - pic
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Picture of nance425
posted
My pathetic wood dresser (top left - as if you couldn't pick it out) Smile needs some help. It's going in a basement bedroom that we are working on. Some of you helped me pick out paint colors, fabric, etc. for the room. I'd like to paint the dresser the royal blue color from the comforter.
I love the dresser in the picture to its right, except for the gold handles. (I'm not a gold person.) Smile
Could you suggest what kind of handles would look good? ??? And would you paint the dresser in a semi gloss? or would it show too many "imperfections" of 50 years worth of wear? Smile
Reminder pic of my colors below.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: nance425,

 
Posts: 4293 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: Dec 01, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of paintlady
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My experience with painting furniture is that the sheen of the paint is not that important because the finish will ultimately come from the top coat. I'd go with either a Satin or Semi Gloss Polycrylic topcoat over the paint to give it that added protection. BUT my all time favorite as of late is to use a Finish Paste Wax by Minwax or Annie Sloan Wax in Clear and put it on lightly over the paint and buff to a shine. I do 2-3 coats of that. So that is why I say the actual sheen of the paint is not as important as the topcoat sheen which should be the look you want. As a side, I usually use a Satin paint for my furniture if I'm not using Annie Sloan's Chalk paint.

Good luck.
 
Posts: 8789 | Registered: Jul 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Froo Froo
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I love the blue dresser and your vision. Brushed nickle would look very nice against the blue for the handles. Use more of that metal around the room via lamp bases, art frames, etc. Clear glass handles are another option depending on the look you seek. I agree that a satin finish is ideal. BTW, a piece of glass w/ beveled edge would protect the top further. If you agree, be sure to add some clear acrylic tabs to create enough space between glass and wood. Can't wait to see your after pic.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Froo Froo,
 
Posts: 16807 | Location: Right here, duh! ;) | Registered: Nov 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of nance425
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quote:
Annie Sloan Wax


PL: Where do you find Annie's Wax?

Froo, thanks so much. I can hardly wait til the paint is dry on the trim. Painter says he'll have all the painting done by the end of next week. We started on the dresser (sanding) this morning. My roman shade in the stripe fabric is just awaiting the rings.
Where can I find inexpensive brushed nickel knobs/handles? The drawers are a little hard to open and close, so not sure whether to put handles or knobs.
What would help with the drawers opening more smoothly?
 
Posts: 4293 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: Dec 01, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Try sanding the runners on the drawers followed by a small amount of wax on them and see if that helps.

I would use brass pulls on the drawers. Your room has a lot of cool color and could use some contrast. Also, brass just looks classier on a traditional dresser. Look at how nice brass looks in your inspiration picture.
 
Posts: 673 | Registered: Jul 17, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of paintlady
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I order my Annie Sloan clear wax from Robyn Story Designs in Tampa. You can find the website online. I could not copy and paste here because the URL tab is not working, and it won't even allow me to paste links. Since they've redone this board, it's a technical nightmare. Oh well, you can also google to see if there is an Annie Sloan Product dealer in your area. I love the creaminess of this wax. It's a dream to work with. Good luck.
 
Posts: 8789 | Registered: Jul 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of junk collector
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That old dresser will be restored to beautiful with a good sanding and new paint! I agree with sanding the drawer runners and waxing. Also, make sure drawer bottoms are sturdy and attached to the sides so there won't be any breaks later on. Now is a good time for that.

The original hardware can be cleaned, primed, and spray painted in what ever finish you desire. Find the paint/finish you like for the dresser and then find a smashing metal finish in the spray aisle for the hardware.

It will look great - please show us the finished project!
 
Posts: 2287 | Registered: Aug 06, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Time to me to start my "I HATE those little eagles" rant. IMHO you need to use pulls, not knobs. The chances that you can fill the 2 holes and cover them (even with paint) are slim. I took the little eagle pulls off my BR furniture and realize that the hanging pulls were attached with eyes surrounded by the little eagles. I broke off (with the use of a hacksaw & pliers) the little eagles and were left with just the brass eyes and the handles. You could then paint them nickel and re-attach.
Of course, they will fit perfectly. Total cost?
A can of spray paint.
 
Posts: 1657 | Location: Northern New Jersey | Registered: Mar 23, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Do you have to use a "top coat" on a project like that???

I've got a 'random' dresser that I'm going to be painting as well.

Just wondering, I had not been planning on doing a 'top coat'.
 
Posts: 32 | Registered: May 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Mary Ruth
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smarge,
If the dresser will get a lot of use, I would top coat it, why? because the scratches if any are made due to use will mar the surface and if the surface is a clear top coat, the piece will have a seemingly unscratched surface.

When the paint color is the top coat of paint, that is the layer that gets scratched. If you do not want to topcoat with a clear poly for example then put at least two coats of your paint (and starting with sanding and a primer before painting).


Mary Ruth
Like stamp sm
*****We don't see things as they are, we see things as WE are! ***** (Anaias Nin)***** http://pinterest.com/mary_ruth/

 
Posts: 8540 | Location: East Space Coast, Florida zone 9B | Registered: Feb 11, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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thanks Mary Ruth,

any suggestions on a brand name for the top coat??
 
Posts: 32 | Registered: May 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Mary Ruth
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I use Lacquer DEFT Clear wood finish which is non-yellowing. It is not water based.
If you do decide to get a water based polyurethane, then look for 'non-yellowing' as the key so it won't turn amber over your paint color.
Good luck!


Mary Ruth
Like stamp sm
*****We don't see things as they are, we see things as WE are! ***** (Anaias Nin)***** http://pinterest.com/mary_ruth/

 
Posts: 8540 | Location: East Space Coast, Florida zone 9B | Registered: Feb 11, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have used the Deft clear lacquer finish many times on furniture we've refinished. After about 4 coats it's water repellant and gives a nice sheen. Just remember to used #0000 fine steel wool between coats and wipe down thoroughly between coats
 
Posts: 2793 | Location: Michigan and sw Florida | Registered: May 16, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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