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Do any of you that paint furniture do it in the winter? It's going to be in the 50-lower 60' here the next few days and I want to paint a cabinet I have. I will do it inside but will need to open a window for some air and wondered if those that have done this get good results. I know sometimes paint may not set well if it is too cold.
Also do you use a primer and a paint or the kind of paint that is the primer and paint in one? I would really appreciate any help with this

I have often painted wood (furniture/cabinets included) indoors. I will always use a separate waterbase primer (Zinser 1 2 3) and a really good quality acrylic enamel paint. Good air circulation is helpful with drying, but with these paints I never felt I needed to open a window, if it was really cold.

I paint furniture year around, because I do it indoors. I also have never had to open a window.. I use the ZINSER Primer also, Behr makes an awesome acrylic enamel paint, and it has low odor.. If fumes concern you look for a low voc paint.

I personally have not found a paint n primer in one that i like for walls, much less for furniture.. I just trust the ZINSER , because if you are going from wood to paint, i know its gonna bond and cover.

I have a post on the first page of this board of a desk i just redone, using the materials noted above. . you can check it out if you like, the day i painted it , it was 40 degrees out and raining, but didn;t open the window

Thanks for the replies! I will get the Zinser primer and paint separate. Does the primer take a long time to dry before you can start painting? I'm really excited about painting this cabinet. I usually have to open a window because I have allergies and the paint gets to me a little bit while painting.
Boo I went and looked at your desk, you did a great job, I love it!

craftybbq,
That primer dries real fast and STINKS!

I would wait until you can open a window.
When I paint inside:
I always close my bedroom door BEFORE beginning a project, that way your room won't get residual fumes or smell since I have gotten more sensitive about paint since we moved.

I paint indoors as well. I use a separate solvent-based primer and spray it on so (this part I do outside!) that the primer layer doesn't leave texture. If it already has a finish of some kind on it I like Zinsser's Cover Stain which is an oil-based bonding primer which helps dissimilar finishes (the current finish & the new one) adhere to each other. Most home use primers are ready to work in about an hour, but this is going to depend on how heavy it is applied. Primer generally only needs to exist on a surface-even if it's only whisper thin. Your actual paint needs to be the primary product as it is made to be a finish. Primer is not.

For furniture, I use Ben Moore Satin Impervo in an oil base. Yes, it takes longer to dry and is very different to work with than acrylics, but I think the end result is much better looking, longer lasting, and far easier to clean. While the oils/alkyds have a stronger odor, they can be used acceptably in temps lower than latex/acrylics, so if you need to open the windows, it shouldn't be a problem.

With colder temps, expect some extra dry time-which either type of paint.

Post pics when you're done!

Of course all of this depends on the importance of the project. A job well done is much more satisfying than a job that was quick, easy, and cheap. It's that "get what ya pay" for thing-even if your the one doing the work.

I want to paint a little side table I bought used. What kind of paint brushes do you all use? And do you get streaks using brushes.

I prefer Purdy brushes. They aren't the kind most people will want to throw away as that wouldn't be cost-effective. I've used the Woosters as well, but the Purdys seem to be a better brush and clean up with less screaming than the Wooster.

If you are using a latex/acrylic paint, use a 100% poly-bristle brush of some kind-by that I mean that the bristles are plastic. For oil/solvent paints, use the 100% natural bristle brush-meaning real hair. Natural bristle brushes will absorb some of the moisture out of your paint while you are using it. Plastic brushes are-well plastic-and can be damaged by solvents. So it's better if you use the appropriate brush.

As for brush strokes, that has more to do with skill than brush. I'm not sure if this is commonly know unless you do a lot of painting, but there are a couple of "rules." One is to "keep a wet edge" and the other is to work "dry into wet" As example: You've started painting your side table and you have a section started across the top and the paint is still wet. When you apply your next brushstrokes, start them on a section that hasn't been painted yet and spread it into the section that is still wet (use your judgement on how long that stroke needs to be. 2 feet away is too far. Try an 8" to 12" distance from the wet part.) Feather your brush at the end of the stoke when you lift it off the wet section while your brush is still making the stroke. This helps with several things. It keeps a wet edge, eliminates brush strokes, and keeps your paint from being real heavy in one spot. Yes, it is a real pain when you're trying to paint something big-like a solid door-to get it all on and smoothed in before it starts to dry. Use a foam roller, or a non-shedding regular roller to get all the paint on then start smacking it down with the brush before it has a chance to dry. My mom never could figure out why the flat metal door to my garage didn't have brush strokes.

There's all the painting nonsense I can think of to share-whether you asked for all of it or not. An important point to keep in mind is that there is more than one way to accomplish a task, so if someone else does it differently, that doesn't mean they're wrong or that they don't get a good result. Information from a variety of sources gives a person options so they can discover what works best for them.

Bella, thank you posting all that information about painting wood pieces. Hopefully if will help me when I give this a try.

What about spraying painting the piece instead?

You can spray paint it. I actually prefer to prime furniture with a spray primer and it doesn't take that much to cover. There are a couple of things about spray paint that should be considered. First, the materials to do a project of any size can be cost prohibitive. Also factor in that you will need to apply several more coats with a spray since the application requires thinner coverage than brushing and if you don't get enough coats on, it doesn't hold up as well and it can be splotchy if coverage isn't uniform. The same wet edge theory still applies. It all needs to be wet at the same time so that when it dries it's smooth without any overlap marks. For most people, I think getting it all uniform is the hardest to do unless you have equipment to spray standard paints with. The higher the sheen you want, the more noticeable inconsistencies will be. For a small piece in a dull sheen, you can handle it if you are diligent with your application. A slower drying time helps extend your working time. Watch for runs at your joints-especially with the slower drying paints because spray paint seems to love gravity.

Good grief! ALL my posts are full of typos and bizarre grammar, and spelling. What the heck is going on???

This message has been edited. Last edited by: *~Bella~*,

Just to add, a great quality paint has good body and self leveling ability that helps with any brush stroke issue too. (along with skill, not over brushing and a great quality brush or roller)
Often the pro paint stores will offer the best advice on product and application materials. I buy my paint from them (Sherwin Williams), only when they have sales and my brushes/roller covers from the local box store, (Menards) best quality displays.

quote:

Originally posted by conrad:
I have often painted wood (furniture/cabinets included) indoors. I will always use a separate waterbase primer (Zinser 1 2 3) and a really good quality acrylic enamel paint. Good air circulation is helpful with drying, but with these paints I never felt I needed to open a window, if it was really cold.

this will be really helpful. thanks.

Again, thank you Bella, for all the information.
I am thinking I don't want to do it now, don't know if I have the patience, LOL

All the info is great!! I am going shortly to find the stuff so I can get started painting
Thank you to all with the great advise!

Looking forward to seeing your project!

One coat of paint done today and hope to do the other tomorrow. The paint had less smell than the primer did. I have lots of allergies so am very sensitive to smells and the primer got to me a little bit. I am anxious to see the second coat tomorrow and I love the color I used!